Mayco – Cone 06 - SC-36 Irish Luck
Product Description
- Description
- GR Forms FAQ
PRODUCT DESCRIPTION
Stroke & Coat® was originally developed to be a cone 06 bisque glaze. The "heavy-duty" performance of the glaze was built-in as a feature for novice, young (school children) or new practitioners; we set out to develop a glaze that would almost "guarantee" a good fired result. "Goof-proof", forgiving, tolerant. As user from various markets began using the glaze they informed us of the amazing results they achieved, using the glaze in ways we had not intended or anticipated. The ultimate "happy accident."
15 years later Stroke & Coat® has become our most popular glaze and it is used in every ceramics market Mayco serves.
Product Features and Attributes
Stroke & Coat®is a heavy-bodied, versatile glaze that has the widest range of use and application of any Mayco glaze The extraordinary tolerance and forgiveness of Stroke & Coat® allows it to be used as follows:
Firing Temperature - can be fired from cone 06 to cone 10
Kiln Atmosphere - reduction or oxidation firing
Surface - can be applied to greenware of bisque
Body - can be applied to earthenware, stoneware or porcelain
Application Thickness - translucent and water-color effects can be achieved with thin applications; full opacity is achieved with thicker applications - if layered it can create dimensional effects
Intermixable - Stroke & Coat® glazes can be blended to create new colors
Design Integrity - can be used to created intricate, detailed designs. Colors butted against one another will not blend. Used in Majolica techniques the glaze will not move nor will it blend into the base glaze beneath it.
Light over Dark - light colors will remain opaque when layered on top of darker colors (3 coat coverage recommended).
Liquid-to-Fired Color Consistency - the colors in their liquid state accurately represent the fired color
Glossy Finish - Stroke & Coat® will fire to a gloss finish - clear glaze is not required
Wide Palette of Colors - Stroke & Coat® glazes are available in over 70 vibrant bright and pastel shades.
Non-Toxic, Food Safe
Application Recommendations:
The following application recommendations are based upon the original product development intent and use for the product.
Information on alternative application methods is listed in the section "Usage Variations and FAQ's Below".
Shake for 5-6 seconds before use. Dispense glaze onto a palette (tile, plate, etc.) and apply with your brush or decorating accessory of choice (sponge, stamp, etc.).
For all-over coverage we recommend using broad bristled brush. One coat will produce a translucent finish with subsequent coats increasing the opacity. For most applications three coats will be sufficient for complete opaque coverage.
Let dry and fire to shelf cone 06. We do not recommend "force" drying (using a hair dryer, for example) as you may experience cracks or crevices in the fired finish.
Special Notes:
Due to the chrome-tin pigments in the formula, SC-13 Grapel and SC-33 Fruit of the Vine are sensitive to non-toxic clear glaze application. We would recommend testing first and light application of clear glaze to avoid flashing or milkiness.
SC-70 Pink-A-Dot is more translucent than the rest of the Stroke & Coat®. This color may require a 4th coat to achieve opaque coverage.
USAGE VARIATIONS AND FAQ’S
Detailed Artwork
Stroke & Coat® is great for design work.
It will not move nor will it blend with glazes it is layered upon.
You can butt colors against one another - the integrity of your design will be preserved.
Lighter colors can be used on top of darker colors and remain opaque and bright.
Water Color Effects
Stroke & Coat® can be thinned with water or media (AC-304) and applied as a wash or used to create water-color styled paintings.
Accent Color
Potters and Clay Artists have found Stroke & Coat® to be useful when they wish to add a bit of color to their work.
Intricate Design Capabilities
The design created before firing is completely preserved after firing. Any blending, mixing, layering or butting done during the glazing process will remain intact and exact.
Q: Do I have to use clear glaze to achieve a glossy finish?
A: Stroke & Coat® fires to a gloss finish and does not require clear glaze. Clear glaze may be used to enhance the glossiness of the fired finish. Apply the clear glaze according to manufacturer's directions over the unfired Stroke & Coat®and fire once.
Note: The amount of non toxic glaze deposited can affect the fired results. If too much glaze and clear glaze is applied you may experiences dull or "milky" fired finishes. If this occurs, adjust the number of glaze layers applied, lighten the amount of glaze on your brush, etc. - whatever is needed to reduce to total amount of glaze placed on the ware. For pieces already fired - you may improve the fired finish by refiring the pieces and adding a hold/soak time at the end of the firing cycle (10-15 minutes).
Q: Are Stroke & Coat®'s luster compatible?
A: All colors are luster compatible.
Q: How can I create dimensional effects with Stroke & Coat®?
A: Stroke & Coat® will remain moderately dimensional when applied in a concentrated area. To create a raised line with a brush: layer 4 to 6 coats, allowing each coat to dry before applying the next. You can also use a detailer bottle or slip trailer to create raised lines: apply 2-3 layers, again allowing each layer to dry between applications.
Q: How do I achieve best results when applying Stroke & Coat® to greenware?
A: Gases and moisture will escape from the greenware during firing, so it is best to leave a portion of the ware unglazed - for example: the back of a tile, the foot of a vessel. If you do completely glaze a greenware piece you may experience a dulling of the gloss finish. If this occurs you can apply a clear glaze and refire to get a gloss finish. Always test to see if Stroke & Coat® will on your specific greenware project.
Q: What are the guidelines for firing Stroke & Coat® to Higher temperatures (cone 6 - cone 10)?
A: Many of the Stroke & Coat® colors perform well at mid range (cone 5-6) and high (cone 9-10) temperatures. Darker colors - green, red, blue, orange, purple - will maintain much of their original color value (they may darken a bit compared to cone 06 results). Lightly pigmented colors - pink, yellow, tan, lighter purples - will fade. Always test to see if this application variance will work on your specific project.
Q: Can Stroke & Coat® be used with other products?
A: Stroke & Coat® glazes are compatible with all Mayco glazes and with many competitive glazes. It is not recommended to design on top of fluid, moving glazes, such as Crystalites and Elements, as then work will become distorted.
Q: Why is Stroke & Coat® different from other glazes?
A: Stroke & Coat® is a heavy-bodied glaze that smooths-out and heals imperfections during the glaze application process. It can withstand over firing without fading and it is tolerant of many types of bisque and clay bodies. It is not fluid like many gloss glazes - it behaves more like a traditional underglaze as it "stays put" where it is applied. It's like having 4 or 5 different glazes in one bottle - a Wonderglaze™ for bisque and clay.
For Product MSDS Sheets Click on "Literature" at the bottom of any page on our site.
How do I care for the Forms?
The Forms are wood, so to make them last for thousands of uses make sure you let them dry in between each use.
The timing of making them and removing the Form from the slab is very similar to plaster. If left on too long your clay will crack and the wood will mold or start to get soft. Mold can easily be washed off with dish soap, and if edges get too rough you can use sandpaper to smooth them.
What are the Forms made of?
The Forms are made from fiberboard.
The cut and beveled fiberboard makes them durable and economical. Easy to use over and over again, giving you a tool to create your personalized, shallow objects. The Forms are designed to be shallow so they are more versatile.
How do you prevent warping?
The first step to avoid warping is properly compressing one side of the slab completely. We then drape the slab over the Form, and compress the other side while it’s on the Form.
After compression and completing any foot or lip prep (adding spacer), we don’t touch the object until it is quite a stiff leather hard (the Form pops off on its own). You should be able to press a finger nail into the clay and leave a mark, but you should not be able to form an impression with the soft part of your finger.
If you are making objects with a lip you must use a spacer.
Once the clay is a stiff leather hard, we lift it off the Form. If it bends or moves in any way after lifting it off, you’ve taken it off too soon. We’ve found that removing the slab too soon is the single most significant factor towards warping the piece.
Also, trying to flip it over before it dries enough may result in the ends to start curling upward. We understand it can be difficult to “be there at the right time,” but the importance of removing the piece at the right time cannot be understated.
The second most common way the slabs will warp is that there is a draft in your room caused by a fan, heater, breeze or room air flow. Make sure to let the object dry evenly in a still area. Speed is not a factor. Plastic or the use of weighted sacks can also cause uneven drying.
Steps to Avoid Warping when Creating a Plate:
- Use a Slab Roller to roll-out the clay
- Use a Rib to compress the clay two different directions on one side
- Add texture if necessary
- Drape, the smooth/textured side down, of moist clay onto form and press gently and evenly to sides to push out any air trapped underneath.
- Use Rib again to compress clay to the Form - firmly and evenly
- Cut strips of clay using Foot Maker
- Let piece and foot strips rest for about 20-30 minutes to stiffen clay slightly
- Score area and add water to score marks to then attach the feet
- Attach foot strips to create border around piece. No more than 1/2 an inch from edge and 8 inches from widest point
- Use Modeling Tool to clean the places where foot meets the body on all sides
- If the piece has a rim, lift off work surface and place a Spacer underneath
- Press the edge of the rim down to work surface to create a slight pitch
- Let piece set for 4-8 hours uncovered in non draft area until edges start to curl up
- Key is even drying - not length of drying. Sometimes putting plastic on top creates uneven drying
- Now flip piece over without flexing or stretching the clay. Then press on inside center downward to level out any curling that might have happened
- Use Surform Rasp to clean edges and carve smooth any uneven areas
- Use Notched Rib to burnish the edges even smoother. With non grog clay you can use a Sponge to smooth edges but do not get clay too wet
- Now is a great time to add your favorite underglaze or carve into piece
- Let dry and bisque fire. Stacking should not affect warping
What determines the size of the Form?
Form sizes are measured from the back side of the Form which is also the largest part of the Form. Measurements are approximate.
If you are trying to determine what size to make, there are many factors involved. Factors would include: The size of your lip, shrinkage of clay and firing temperature.
The Depth of Standard Forms are 3/4 inch. If you want to determine the center/inside measurement, it would be 1.5 inches smaller than the Form measurements.
Slim Forms are 1/2 inch in depth.
Deeper Options:
If you are looking for a deeper option you can use the general rule that if a shape is 1.5 inches different in measurement it will stack with the size above or below it. We offer "Stacks" to make this available to you.
Due to the depth limitations of the wood we feel it is not practical to glue wood together to make deeper shapes. If you need this depth then it becomes more cost effective to use plaster molds.
How do I avoid “seams” when making deeper bowls or platters using one or more stacked plates together?
Unfortunately, one of the disadvantages of stacking the Forms is that it is difficult to avoid creating small "seams" between them, as there will remain a small gap unless the Forms themselves were glued together. When we use Stacked Forms to create bowls or plates with greater depth, we have found it is most effective to use a rib or ribbon tool to smooth out the seam lines when the piece is a very stiff leather hard.
Do I need to use a release agent?
No release agent, cleaning or sealing necessary. In fact we would recommend avoiding doing this.
How do I avoid distinct marks?
You can sand down the form edges before use to eliminate the appearance of distinct marks. Sanding or altering the wood will not affect its use.
I am having problems with the foot popping off when I put my plates through the bisque fire. What can I do to avoid this?
We’ve noticed that two things seem to cause the foot “popping off” in the bisque.
The first is when the body of the clay is still a little wet and is “rushed” into the bisque. Make sure that your piece is completely bone dry before bisqueing.
The second is when the foot is applied but is slightly wetter or drier than the body of the piece. This may cause the foot to separate from the body, especially at the ends. It is very important to make sure that the foot and body of the piece contain the same moisture level to increase adhesion. Additionally, make sure that when you apply the foot, you are thoroughly scoring and wetting both the bottom of the piece and the part of the foot that attaches to the piece.
All of our Round Forms are now pre-drilled for use with the WA (Wheel Attachment) System.
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